Real wood, treated to resist moisture, rot and insects. The lowest cost of entry and still a properly good deck. It wants washing and re-staining every year or two, and it can be refinished to any color you like later on.
Wood fibre and recycled plastic, capped with a protective shell. No staining, no sealing — a wash once or twice a year is the whole job. The widest color and texture range of the three, and where most of our clients end up.
Fully synthetic, with no wood content at all — so there is nothing in the board for moisture to get into. The most resistant to staining and fading, noticeably cooler underfoot than dark composite, and it carries the longest warranties.
Naturally durable timber rather than treated softwood — western red cedar, redwood, and dense tropical hardwoods like ipe and mahogany. Grain and color no manufactured board quite matches, and ipe is harder underfoot than anything else here.
Built from the same material as the deck, so the two read as one run. Posts, top and bottom rails, and either wood or square metal balusters. The cheapest way to enclose a deck — and it wants the same re-staining the boards do.
Powder-coated aluminum, usually in black, bronze or white. It will not rot, rust, warp or need re-coating, and the posts are slimmer than anything you can cut from wood — so more of the view survives the railing.
The rail systems the decking manufacturers build to match their own boards — same color, same cap, same texture. Heavier profiles than aluminum, so more of the view goes into the rail, but nothing ties into the deck this cleanly.
Whatever puts the least material between a chair on the deck and what you are looking at. Cable needs posts stiff enough to take the tension without drawing in; glass shows every rain spot. Both earn it where there is a view worth keeping.
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